I found this on my computer, I sent it to The Surfers Path but I think they did not like it.
I read through your magazine and I am amazed by the bitterness and loathing towards where surfing as an industry is going. It seams that surfing has evolved into some corporate monster that is driven by greed and money. This in turn fuels the masses that flood the beaches and line-ups that were once reserved for the select few. Surfing defined who you were how you lived your life and now you are connected to the cling-on crew who feed off the ideals and lifestyle that the ad agencies have exploited. As the stereotype blonde haired dude have just about been shaken off, a new wave of typed people are coming through. Suited through the week and wet suited at the weekend, the well off people can buy into surfing quite readily, they can afford to buy the latest gear and board, they surf the locations, shepherded by the travel companies to the right waves.
I’m a white-water kayaker and there are some parallels between surfing and kayaking. I watch the bands of rain coming off the Atlantic and with the knowledge of local geology, micro climates and guessology, the plans for weekends are made. We chase the rain as you chase the swell. It takes over your life, dry spells are killers. Scatting about for the last of the water making its way down to the sea. The search for new water, new drops and rapids keeps my passion on fire, a new creek and possible first descent is the best feeling in the world. You find a secret spot, work out the tides, wind and swell direction and wait for the elements to come together, then its time to step up and drop in, it’s the same for us, we are so similar.
The only difference is that kayaking has not been swallowed by the mainstream yet and I hope, so badly that it doesn’t happen. In the UK the paddling community is small, you can go to Scotland, England or Wales and somebody will know someone. In the UK and abroad there is no localism no negativity, yet.
Kayaking is protected though by certain inaccessibility, the locations where we push the limits are accessed only by a long, cold and wet apprenticeship, coupled with the need for rope work from climbing and an intimate relationship with the environment. Only then does Mother Nature let you play with her. This could keep it underground, the effort and commitment needed just to get a buzz or reach a goal sometimes seams like too much hard work. Just to safe guard it I have my secret rivers and creeks that only a few of us have paddled. These little gems are my secret spots that will preserve white-water kayaking, the values and lifestyles that define me.
All this snow about is very strange, it brings out the shit drivers and makes getting about an effort, however for playing in snow is so fun. Once again I had a plan, I would go to Pen Y Ghent and snowboard down one of the western gullies, however I couldn't face the walk up and the possibility of not getting to the parking space so I drove up Wharfedale and did some roadside boarding. The snow was crisp and deep, big long turns felt good and solid. A few more boarders turned up and it felt good, everyone was smiling and happy. Some older folk turned up with ski's and talked about the time a drag lift was set up. So if it stays around for long enough I will get to PYG next weekend.
I really don't like all the hustle and bustle that leads up to Xmas, its just unnecessary fuss, so it was decided that Ness and I would go away for Christmas. Having only surfed in the cold waters of the UK, a holiday to a warm beach sounded just the ticket. The flights were booked and beachside apartment found and car hire sorted out the night before we went. Its amazing what deals can be done when you hold out.
Anyway, the week was brilliant. I was going to write a long post but now Im home there's not much to say. The daily routine consisted of: waking up, surfing, having breakfast, reading, another surf before lunch, lunch, sunbathe and read, surf, back into the sun and then a quick surf as the sun is going down before tea.
I like surfing, all stages of progression are in the same location, there are no shuttles and can be as committing as you like.
I took the headcam with me, its hard to make surfing films, I should have had some soul searching in depth interviews with myself.
So the rain arrived on Sunday, and the plan was to head up to Swaledale to and explore some becks Tom and I had scouted eariler in the summer. We arrived to find the Swale at a good level so we went and ran Whitsundale Beck down into the Swale. Wainwath was now covered and had a mean looking hole, so we all opted for the left hand line. Still raining, we soon arrived at Rainby and eddied out. I can only look at things for so long so jumped in my boat and ran it. I got worked in the bottom and had the worst beatdown ive ever had kayaking. Its a very humbeling experience, my boat was in the eddie next to me and my paddle had wedged its self on the other bank which was a stroke of luck. We all decided to get off the river and stick to the original plan of exploring so we headed to Gunnerside Gill.
We walked up, and had a blast kayaking down, When I first saw it, I thought that I would never see it with enough water in it to see it run but today we were blessed. We then headed over to do Gayle Beck that runs into Hawes, it has been on my tick list for ages and I cant wait to go back and do it with a few more inches of water in it.
